Aside from the fact that the name of the island starts with a letter S, I have 4 S-words more to describe when I visited the mystic island of Siquijor for the 1st time.
Sun, Sea, Sand and a bit of Supernatural!
A travel of approximately 3 hours from Cebu City to Lilo-an, 30-minute boat ride to Dumaguete and another 45-minute boat ride to Siquijor, would be enough for you to crave on an island they dubbed as “Island of the Sorcerers”, “The Mystic Island”, “The Island of Fire”, “Island of faith and Mystique” and so on.
It was barely afternoon when we arrived. (I swear I could have kissed the ground upon landing but I can’t maybe because I am mortified). The contrast between the coastal areas and the mountainous regions seemed more barefaced at that very moment. The island, I would say, was mystifying rather than mystic. The deafening SILENCE, the angry waves walloping the seashore, the 3 kite-size birds that looked like vultures waiting for its prey- would make you feel anxious. I do not know if that was already the Supernaturalism that they call, but ironically, I can feel that something exciting will about to happen.
From the Siquijor dock, locals fervently offer motorcycle ride going to the different tourist spots. In our case, we commissioned 7 friendly drivers right away who will take 12 of our pack to the resort where we will be staying. Luckily, they also agreed to be our tourist guides as they vowed to take us anywhere in the island for our 2-day getaway.
As we travel along, I could sense a growing uneasiness mixed with exhilaration among my travel cohorts as we approach the inner island.
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| Encountering OBESE dogs (four of them I saw) is a very unusual site for me. It makes me wonder what the hell are these dogs eating? |
Entering the island’s capital, the St. Francis de Assisi Church and Bell Tower welcomes you first. Its aged facade is an emblem that the Siquijodnons are religious and devout catholic.
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| St. Francis de Assisi Church and Bell Tower |
The island's terrain varies between flat and leveled in the main road and craggy and hilly in the upland areas. - a clear sign that the island itself is still struggling for its development.
I sigh when our motorcycle turned left. We passed through a moderately dirty road and forested grove like of that trees in the Lord of the Rings movie. It’s dark and you can’t help but imagine the tree branches silhouetted in the evening dusk, transform into beast patterns. But I was relieved when I saw the sign of the resort’s name: SALAGDOONG BEACH.
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| A very scary forest on the way to Salagdoong Beach |
The resort that I expected tranquil was in a festive atmosphere that night. Since it’s the month of May (which is considered in the Philippine calendar a Fiesta Month), we were lucky to witness and celebrate a resort event sponsored by their town’s Governor- A Dance Competition.
The resort was jam-packed. While people started to flock the event, we were very busy setting things up. We went to our hotel room to deposit our luggage. We soon after situated our tents-up, prepared our dinner and the rest as they say is history.
I woke up with the sound of breeze. I roamed around the vicinity while my mates were still asleep. This secluded beach resort has a bit of a commercial beauty but nevertheless naturally preserved. The shore is not at its longest strip but breathtakingly enticing. I noticed a structure placed on top of the huge rock lies in the middle of the shore, a stairway leading to a mini-gazebo offers an excellent view of the entire beach. The canopy of trees also offers an inviting treat to just loaf around and enjoy the cool morning zephyr.
As time is precious for a two-day island getaway trip, we did not waste our time and immediately pack up. Ready with our gears such as cameras, water and food, together with our motorcycle drivers, we stopped by first to an old church of Santa Maria. This 1880 erected foundation is made of stone. On the right side of the Church is a hexagonal belfry, which probably doubled as a watch tower during olden times, used to warn the locals of impending attacks from the sea by Moro raiders.
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| The Maria Church housed the controversial Sta. Rita of Cascia statue or the Black Mary who holds a skull and an inverted cross. But it is no longer there when we visited. |
So much for history, we went over to something serene and natural. Highlighting our trip included a visit to Cantabon Cave. Famed for its impressive group of stalactites and stalagmites among 45 other caves in the island, the trail from the start to its very end was difficult. It was indeed a rocky travel along those slopes and areas where you have to bend over to avoid bumping into the formations. A quick tip would be to equip yourself with durable shoes that can endure rocks and secure your helmet in place. Our guides said that it takes about two (2) hours to explore the whole place to and fro and that it wouldn’t be complete without taking shots of the beauty the cave beholds. Experiencing the unexploited grandeur, however, is surely worth the take.
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| Cantabon Cave |
On a lighter note, we took a side trip to Cambugahay Falls. This body of water is more of actually a series of cascades. To add it to the S-list of my Siquijor’s description, I would say that it’s beauty lies on simplicity, serenity, and sobriety. It has no sense of majesty, like the one we imagine of a strong and tall waterfall, but what it has is something more divine – mystery. It is like coming home to the source of life itself – free, fluid, and abundant.
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| Cambugahay Falls |
It was a long and very physical day but we still have 2 hours before the darkness envelopes the entirety of the island. I know that wandering to a place not known to you is not a good idea especially at night and not to mention, in Siquijor. But excitingly, we proceeded to a town called Lazi – a halcyon place full of history and mystery. One structure that is noticeable is the rectangular-shaped Convent. In front of it is the old St. Isidore Parish Church. Both are musty with of course a smell of history or, if you want, the odor of sanctity. St. Isidore Parish Church was completed in 1884 and the huge Convento was last 1891. Both have been declared National Historical Monuments.
Now here comes the supernatural part. Before we decided to go home, we asked our drivers if they knew someone who performs Tarot reading or Palm reading just to experience what Siquijor is known for. I was surprised when they refer it as Black Tourism. We went to a town named Maria to visit an old lady who performs both palm and tarot reading. It was already dark when we got there. We found a small typical hut with no electricity. We were welcomed by a smiling lady who obviously knew our intentions for coming. She was not like a familiar image of a gypsy woman decorated with exaggerated accessories but true enough that she has cards with different images. She lit a small used candle and began her oration. She spoke interestingly that it beguiled us. The session took around 3 hours for us to listen of everything she has to say. Overall, the divination experience taught us many things. It gave us hope and excitement. While my companions believed in the soothsaying that they heard from the lady, I stil relied and trusted on what God has prepared for me.
The island of Siquijor is an interesting mix of the mystical and traditional Catholic beliefs. But it is no different from any other province, especially in rural areas, where religion asserts a big influence in people's lives. The real mystery, though, lies in the island's magnificent beaches waiting to be discovered by those who are bold enough to visit it.
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| A very old Bible with Latin scriptures. |
If I foretell the future of this island, I would say that Tourism is yet to be a major industry in Siquijor.
